HT-0275 Splitting Maul

This hatchet is perfect for general use around the home or camp. I use the tool mainly for making kindling from split rounds, and trimming small to medium sized limbs. The 1.8 lb head is the ideal weight IMO for these purposes - not too heavy so comfortable to use, and not too light so it cleaves effectively without repeated hits. I have used many "general use" camp/DIY hatchets ((Fiskars, Estwing, etc.), and virtually all have head weights between 1-1.2 lbs, which is not heavy enough for efficient, easy kindling splitting or limb trimming, unless working with small diameter pieces. Note that Intertool also makes a 1.3 head weight hatchet, but I've found the 1.8 lb version is the perfect head weight for the uses I describe above. This hatchet is well made, durable, arrived well packaged and sharp, and has held its edge over repeated uses with no signs of damage or poor construction whatsoever. This hatchet is an excellent value, and I am extremely pleased with it.

Incredible quality and sharpness and design at a value price. Unique blade cover included. Perfect size for easy of carry, storage and handling. Highly recommended.

Works great. Just the right weight for a small guy. shaped well for splitting and maul doesn't get lodged in a half split log.

Nice hatchet, great weight but wasn’t very sharp when received. Had to sharpen it prior to first time using it. Other than that, very pleased with the price point and durability so far!

Solid maul, splits well and the handle holds up better than oak. Ergonomic grip, nice head shape that splits harder and faster. More splits per hit ratio on this guy for sure. Would recommend! Granted the picture shows it was used to split a ~10” birch trunk, so yeah it does that well too. This is for the 36” handle 4.5lb maul. I did sharpen it up a bit before use, as I would with any axe/hatchet after purchase

Looks to be exactly what I need. Have several full sized axes and small hatchets but this hits that mid spot for chopping tough kindling and splitting smaller pieces. Quality tool.

This is an excellent camp axe. Large sharp axe head with perfect handle length for splitting small logs for camp fire. Shorter handled axes risk hand injury due to proximity of hands to the log. This is not a good choice for splitting large quantities of wood. Some reviews spoke of broken handle or axe head breaking off and the photos showed damage to handle directly under the axe head which suggests “misses” when swinging at logs. Improper use should not be blamed on the tool

This would do great if it had three or four more pounds. I split much wood in the last few weeks. I hit rocks and nails and barbed wire hidden in the wood. Yet the edge shows no nicks or chips. This was mind blowing. I hit hard in the ground about 6 or 7 times each with a s good deal of rock flying out. I even hit a old barbed wire inside the wood. and 2 nails or screws. Thus so far the edge of my axe has no nick or chip on it. But I have seen my axe bounce from hitting some rot wood that was dried out and seen it stick in deep when hitting wet rot wood. So I think if this axe had more weight to it it would have not bounced from or stuck in deep and taken me much energy to remove from the wood with rot . I think 3 or 4 more pounds would have powered thru the wet rot and kept from a bounce from the dry rot wood Chopping wood, Have the axe over your shoulder behind you, Bring the axe up swigging it down but let the weight and gravity do the work after you get the axe at the highest point in the swing. This is how you save energy and wear and tear on your body. Never try to carry thru on a swing this will only cause you pain and make your aim from hitting where you would like it to hit. If you having a issue hitting where you want too. Try some soft swings and try keeping the hits in the same area. over lapping would be best. New wood chopping people should try keeping logs 12 to 18" long and the same in width as a single hit to chop the log. Use less speed and force on each half log that you just split. Now on really big logs keep the logs cut to 12" long the wood will split easy if you work outside wood all the way around the log you will chop off the edge of the log in flat splits that will latter be great for making Kindling. It will be long and flat because the splitting of the wood will run with the wood grain. I split some36 to 47" width logs from a old oak this way with the greatest of ease. True I had much Kindling but one can never go wrong with wood that will dry fast and burn very easy with little heat source. The trick to get wood to burn best is have air from under fire and honestly wood don't burn. Wood when heated will release a gas in the form of smoke the gas/ Smoke is what the fire will feed from. So if you have a lot of smoke the fire needs more air or you will waste the wood as the gas will rise fast from the heating source that turns smoke to plasma known as fire.. Once wood has been changed to a carbon it will hold the heat for much longer. It will look like some glowing ambers know as a coal bed this need only a small air flow to keep the heat glowing for hours Adding a lot of air to a coal bed hotter but it will lose heat much faster as the heat will travel up away from the carbon in a force know as convection .And letting the carbon cool and turn to ash. LOL sorry I am a little bit of a pyromaniac. But I know fire well. If you are too you should get a good axe like this one and enjoy turning logs into what burns with ease , firewood. I hope you enjoy the axe. I do.

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