Tub, Tile and Shower Repair Kit (Color Match), 3.7oz Fiberglass Repair Kit, Porcelain Repair Kit White/Almond/Black/Bone/Bisque/Biscuit/Grey/Cream/Off White/Beige, Odorless Bathtub Paint

This was a wonderful fix! We have a tub-shower insert that was in great condition aside from an area high up where there was some kind of previous damage. It looked like the previous owner or someone hastily attempted a repair. It was unsightly. Found and used this product and it worked SO well. Had to do 3 coats because of the substantial damage. Color matching was the hardest part and I went a little too dark on the last coat, but only if you look closely. It was fast and easy and I’m so pleased with this product!! Tips - be SUPER sparing with the tinting. A tiny pin pick amount goes a long way - be very careful to put it only on the area needed and feather the edges so it’s easier to sand -I taped around my spot because I saw a few videos were people did that- I don’t recommend it. I waited too long and a tiny string of the painters tape is now a part of our shower forever. - it dries the same color as it is wet- so make sure it matches before applying -sanding is needed and it’s not super easy so have some extra on hand Overall, highly recommend! Very happy with the results. Before and after results

I was looking for a cost effective way to fix a small crack/ hole in our fiberglass shower and this was an adequate solve. I accidentally dropped our babies bathtub and the plastic chipped the corner of the fiberglass. Overall I was satisfied with the product but I wasn’t in love with the final result. I will say that the epoxy mixture is great, as it did a great job of filling the hole and the hairline fractures! Matching the color was a little tough but I did achieve a close enough warm white that looked close to the rest of the tub. The brown gel goes a long way so please be VERRYY careful when adding the color to the epoxy. Also the color gel is very watery and messy so be carful when opening and closing the lids. I would suggest having some scrap paper in place before opening both the gel and mixture A and B. Mixing the A-B was easy but getting the exact amount was a little tough to eyeball. I also wish the company included an additional wood popsicle stick to ensure you’re not mixing the epoxy compounds. I made sure it was wiped clean before scooping into part B but I still wasn’t 100% sure I used the exact amounts. I highly suggest masking off the area you’re repairing! It helped me big time! I was able to section it off and ensured my coat was even by having the area cleaned and masked off. Another grip that I have is that the instructions said let the epoxy sit for 24 hours but on Amazon and in the tutorial videos provided by the company it said 3-4 hours. This was a bit confusing and I wasn’t sure what time was correct, but letting it sit for a full day seemed to work fine for me. After the epoxy dried and the tape was removed I begun the sanding process, which wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be. If your doing this by hand it will take some time! I ended up using all of my 600 grit sandpaper! It wasn’t the most effective when leveling out the dried epoxy as it took about an hour to get it smooth downed. I cut it into manageable pieces that allowed me to create a make shift guitar pick, which then allowed me to get around the corner and closer to the base of the shower wall. The 1000 grit sandpaper worked magic! I was able to smooth out the rest of the epoxy relatively quickly using it and I used the sample small guitar pick method for sanding it down. Once it was pretty smooth I noticed that the color was a tad bit flat and that the shine from the epoxy coat was completely gone. The brand needs to include polish!!!! I was a bit let down that it wasn’t included and after further reading the instructions they suggest you buy additional polish. So overall it was decent! It did the job, but it WILL NOT be the picture perfect examples that the brand is using. I believe most of the images are photoshopped in all honesty. Overall the actual product is good but if you want a really nice finish on your tub or shower I would suggest buying additional and better sandpaper. I would say start with 500-600 grit, and then go to something in between 700-800, and then finishing with the 100 grit sandpaper. Also make sure you grab some polish to get the shine and luster back to the surface, which I wish was included in the kit. Be careful not to damage the existing surface as it will scratch. Lastly being that I don’t have any home improvement experience or background, I wish the brand had actual tutorials done by professional as that would be great for new users. It would help us understand a step by step process on how to effectively use this product. Again, I think I would be willing to do it again but if you have a lot more damage I would say leave it to the professionals!!! It’s not as easy or as quick as it looks but I’m decently satisfied with the result.

I've used this twice, first to repair a 1cm chip in a fiberglass composite shower, then to patch some chipped tile in a kitchen floor. It works great, but it's genuinely hard to get a color match. In my I was a little not-dark-enough on the first attempt, and a little too-dark-and-too-grey on the second. Both I consider adequate outcomes, as they look 1000% better than they did before. The tile floor shown has about a dozen chips repaired, the largest about 1cm wide. (Side note: if you want to clean grout, mix hydrogen peroxide with baking soda and dish soap. It actually works!) Between the brown and black dyes you have a lot of versatility in matching a color, but it's not at all reproducible. Every attempt is a roll of the dice, you can't save the result for later, and you've permanently used to some of your raw materials. To its credit, the material looks about the same wet as it does cured. I found the consistency when mixed fairly sticky. This is good, as it adheres well to the substrate, but there are downsides. It's hard to flatten it out without making a mess during application. I had my best results using a toothpick. The material cures to the consistency of a very hard polymer. As others have mentioned, sand paper is barely effective in wearing down the material (without power tools), though it does work. I had good results with a Dremel and a barrel grindstone. Takes a light touch, but it was easy to take the bulk of the material off leaving a flat surface. From there it depends how shiny you want it. For my shower I sanded, then used rubbing and polishing compounds to match the existing shine. The tile was trickier, as it was not glossy, but a sort of ceramic eggshell pebble with some color variations. For that I used the Dremel stone to flatten, then some combination of sandpaper and a scotchbrite pad to arrive at an approximate texture. I'm not sure it would be possible to achieve a perfect texture match, but for small repairs, and for most practical purposes, I'm happy.

First off, color mixing is very, very tedious. If you're color is an off white to bisque you're going to have to really sneak up on it. Without exaggeration, you have enough of the dye to tint hundreds of repair jobs. If you have a fairly light off white to bisque color then you need to BE VERY careful how much dye you add. Depending on how much of the patch epoxy you mix up, using the tip of the toothpick you may only need to get maybe a millimeter or two of dye on it to color the a light color match. I used the kitchen scale to weight the A and B components on a plate and used about a tenth of the epoxy for each batch. The first batch I stuck the toothpick in about 1/4" and that tinted the first batch to a medium dark bisque right away. Ok so throw away the first batch and try again. Second time I did what I thought was about half of the first and it was still too dark for my bisque tub. So pitch that out and start over. Third time I did very small dabs of the tint and after a few attempts I managed to get a very good color match. Ok, on to the application. The tub I was matching was enameled steel and one of the bad nicks was on the side of the tub in a big flat area. The second nick was on the curved edge of the tub. For the first one, I was able to get a fairly level bed layer without too much excess by carefully applying with a flat plaster edging tool. On the curved side I had to get creative and ended up wiping off the first patch and starting over, When applying the patch it's very liquid and this at first. This makes it hard to get a level smooth fill right away. And it's very important to get as smooth and level of a fill as possible. This epoxy is not easy to sand flush without scratching up the shiny finish of the original finish around the patch. So keeping leveling sanding with a higher grit to a minimum is really important. In my case, I applied the finish and let it set up for several minutes until is was starting to get a little firmer. Then I came back and mechanically smoothed the area with a plastic scraper and single edged razor blade to shave the patch away to level as it was starting to get hard. For the curved area, I bought another plastic edging tool at the big box store and actually cut a curve in it that more or less matched the curve of the tub edge. This allowed me to level the patch on the edge to a uniform thickness while still applying good pressure on the edges to keep it leveled with the original finish. Sanding is another place to be careful. If you need to sand the patch to get it level, then sand in small areas and change the paper often. You will probably need more sandpaper than comes in the kit unless you get the patch very level to start. If you sand too aggressively on the lower number coarser grits you will scratch the shiny finish around the patch and that may be visible depending on how the light hits the surface. Fixing the shine requires multiple sanding sessions with finer and finer grits and is a hassle, so try not to do too much sanding outside the patch initially. You're going to have to do some, but try to keep it small. Overall it took me about 4-5 hours to patch 3 dings in the tub each about half the size of a dime. They were very visible and the first thing you noticed stepping into the bathroom. After that work I asked my realtor if she could see the places I patched the tub and she found them, but it took her a minute. To the casual observer they wouldn't have notices just walking in.

I used the tub and tile repair kit to repair many small damages to my 30-yr old 1-piece resin tub/shower insert. My tub is white, but slightly discolored with age and use. I didn't fuss with the color, and just used the product straight from the containers. The product is basically an opaque white 2-part epoxy, with highly concentrated dyes for color matching if desired. I followed instructions carefully and it was easy to use. I applied the mixed product with a popsicle stick that came in the kit, then wiped it off and let it dry to use again. The deepest damage needed 2 applications, which I did about 10 hours apart. I flattened them as much as possible while wet, then sanded after 24 hours. The repair was about 2 weeks before this review. The patches held well, didn't pop out, and are hardly noticable at all. I'm really please because using them at my home was a test run for repairing a brand new porcelain tub at our investment property, chipped by a careless tile contractor. I would be destroying a $4000 job to replace that tub, and I believe this $20 product will do the job. I nearly used a similar product from home Depot which was $20 for a tiny single use product, and that was a liquid, which I was concerned about. This product is easily 10X the size, so useful for many projects, and there is no need to mix the entire thing at once, as with the smaller Home Depot product. So far, very pleased.

Beige colored iron bathtub suffered some chips. This kit is really amazing. The most difficult thing is managing the color match. The black requires just the tiniest speck when combined with part A & B and the brown. Had a few re-dos as a result, but there was enough material to get the job done. The color matching will improve in direct proportion to your patience in adding the color. Parts A & B didn't harden very quickly so there was plenty of time to work with the product.

So.. start with a tiny bit of A and B add a spec of color. Not a toothpick dip like someone said... don't do that. Add a spec like your doing dot work. LoL 😆 eventually I got the right color mix. But I ended up mixing half the containers lol 😆 also if it looks to pink and you think you need a light beige.. add more white sure.. but add a spec of black too. Most the beige needed for say a tub is a mix of both colors. Very little black to beige color like a 4:1 ratio of the beige to black. .. and hardly any of either lol. It stays workable for however long you need. This also means it'll take a long time to dry realize you need to wait till next day at least to sand. They also recommend in the paperwork to have a polish and a wax not in the kit available. I like the mix I could work w this resin without feeling lightheaded in a small bathroom. Fumes maybe a tiny bit but nothing horrid at all and the smell is all in part b lol 😆 jars are easily resealable. Same w color. So if you mess up sand down and try again. Would have been better if they included more popsicle sticks so I recommend having something to mix and apply and something for the jars I ended up bleeding colors and mix back I to my jars with only 1 stick included. This is obviously less then ideal. But hey it's a good kit. You should get another bit of sand paperm they include red sandpaper in 600 and 1000. You want 2000 for a tub to polish at the end. And I wouldn't recommend a red piece anyway. Use the others to rough the original surfaces up. Then wipe them clean and dry. Resin mix comes off with acetone if it gets on your hands. It's one star less then perfect because not enough sticks not good instructions (though adequate) didn't include wax or polish (or tell you you needed it before buying) didn't include a mixing tray.

We removed a shower basket and were left with two drill holes. Videos suggested taping off the area - excellent suggestion. We had a spare tile to see if any color mixing would be necessary. Did several samples and left them to dry (24 hours). They dried glossy. When sanded the material lost its gloss and became matte. Our tile has a high gloss finish. We began by putting a small amount of material into each hole to act as a "plug" before attempting the finishing work. Waited two days. Mixed a new amount of material and used METAL tools for application. Discovered the yellow plastic smoother would leave a depression dimple in the material due to its flexibility. The metal smoother worked much better. We are trying to avoid the need for sanding so the material stays glossy. Will add another photo once the tape comes off. Definitely a good purchase! Tape came off and not happy yet. New tape, another application of a little bit too much (on purpose). Waited 3 hours. Removed tape. Leveled the application using single edge razor blade to cut the material making it level with the tile. Although there is a color difference, the kit provided a really nice hole filler. With the use of the razor blade the material even covered a small chip I had made in the tile. Clean up was easy using nail polish remover.

cumple con mis necesidades

We opened the product just when we were going to use it. To our surprise it was actually already used. Not brand new product. Good thing there was enough to use to do its job.

ممتاز جداً جداً للسراميك او البورسلان اذا كانت الكسور خفيفه وصغيره ، لازم تضبط اللون صح اللون قوي ، ياخذ وقت عشان يجف تماماً 24ساعه ويصير مثل السيراميك

very convenient pack allowing you to eye match the color of your bath or basin. takes a bit of time to get the match really close so take it gently and mix in a small batch. sets rock had and sands easily with fine wet and dry paper with plenty of water to lube . then it polishes up really well.

We removed the old framed glass shower from the shower pan to replace it with a new framed one. This left two drill holes on the shower pan that we wanted to fill to prevent water damage and look better. The product worked well and was easy to use. The shower pan was white but a little less white than the standard color so I used the tiniest dot of the brown color to blend the right color. Each pot has enough to do several holes depending on the size so if the color isn't right you can try again (I mixed A & B in an old yogurt container). Happy with the results. It did leave a little residue beside it so try to clean it up before it dries as it didn't come off with sanding and I didn't want to scratch it up by over sanding.