SP12H2 4K HDMI Splitter - 1x2 HDR, Dolby Vision Atmos, Down Scaler, 4K 1080P Sync, 4:4:4, HDCP2.2, EDID 4K5.1/4K7.1/Copy, For Game, Xbox, PS5, Roku

Super worth it splitter for PlayStation 5 streamers or those with home theater setups! I thought I'd need to upgrade either my TV or AVR to be able to fully enjoy 4K HDR Bluray disks & 60fps gaming on the PS5 along with HD/lossless audio. My Hisense TV doesn't have eARC, while my Sherwood AVR can't pass through 4K + HDR + 60Hz via HDMI. So it was a choice of either connecting direct to the TV via HDMI to get 4K HDR 60Hz, but with only standard 5.1 Dolby Digital or DTS as my audio options connected via optical or ARC. Or, if I use HDMI passthrough, I can get 7.1 Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD Master audio via the AVR but I'm limited to 4K 30Hz only with no HDR on the TV. I've already tried other supposed 4K HDMI splitters, but they would either downgrade the video to 1080p or audio to stereo when splitting the signal. But I found a YouTube review of this EZCOO splitter showing how it can properly split 4K HDR with full 7.1 HD audio. Saw it on sale on Amazon, and for the price I thought it would be worth trying. Out of the box, with the default settings, it didn't work right away. But after flicking some switches on the splitter and a PS5 restart, I was able to get what I wanted, 4K 60Hz HDR on the TV and full 7.1 HD audio (True HD, HD Master or PCM) through the AVR, without using passthrough! Proof is in the pictures. Here's what worked for me: TV connected to Output1, AVR connected to Output2. Set Scaler on Output2 to ON. Set EDID to 4K. Important things to take note: Make sure all your cables are at least HDMI 2.0 compatible. Plug the splitter into a USB port with enough power (I tried it with a USB hub and it didn't work, but it works with the PS5's USB plugs). And most importantly, especially during initial setup, make sure your TV and AVR are both already turned ON first BEFORE you turn on your PS5. Their customer service is pretty great too. When I wasn't able to get it to work at first, I messaged them and they quickly responded (although I was actually able to figure it out for myself before I got to read their reply). Anyway, thanks to this device, no need to upgrade my TV and AVR for now, or maybe until all the PS5 HDMI 2.1 issues get ironed out. 🙂

I bought this device so that I could use a Roku Ultra with an older Sony TV that doesn’t support HDCP 2.2 (which the Roku requires). This device did exactly what I wanted it to do, straight out of the box, with no problems or issues. Plus, the USB port on the Roku is being used to power this device. Bottom line, this device worked perfectly for what I bought it, and I couldn’t be more satisfied!

This is a powerhouse of a video/audio splitter/downconverter! I have an old 7.1 audio receiver that cannot receive a 4K signal, yet needs a connection from HDMI in order to properly deliver 7.1 audio. I found this device and was hoping it would work well, and it absolutely does the job. I have my Apple TV connected to the HDMI in (with EDID switched to 7.1 to trick the Apple TV into passing through proper audio) with my TV connected to HDMI out 1 (no downscale) and the receiver hooked up to HDMI 2 (1080p downscale). The build quality is great, features work flawlessly so far with current electronics (Apple TV even offers Atmos audio pass through which I wasn’t expecting) and the box even has details on how to update firmware if that becomes something in the future. The adapter works flawlessly once it’s working properly with SDR content, however I do have 2 issues: 1.) Sometimes the converter/splitter doesn’t work properly if the source becomes active AFTER the converter is booted up. I have the adapter plugged in to a USB port that becomes powered after the TV turns on (which is typically turned on by my Apple TV) so this is not a problem for me. However this can be solved by unplugging the converter then plugging it back in. 2.) HDR content will pass through to be down converted to 1080p, however HDR will remain active which may lead to an inaccurately colored image. Sadly you’ll need to turn HDR off if you’re using both displays at the same time, but if you’re like me the quality of the 1080p output doesn’t matter as it’s going into an audio receiver. Overall for the price I would definitely recommend. I’ve been using the device for a few weeks now with minimal issues. Hopefully it’ll last a while!

Amazon Prime Video, for some reason, restricts anyone with a 1080i or 1080p display from seeing titles in Dolby Atmos (even though you pay for ad-free). The SP12H2 eliminates that restriction because it makes the Fire TV Stick think you have a 4K display. It works on both Fire TV 4K Sticks and Google TV 4K Sticks. In fact, on the Google TV, there is an added bonus: because since the Google TV Stick thinks you have a 4K display, it enables every single format below that, such as 1080p 30Hz, which your old display might be able to use but which is normally not a visible choice (forcing you to go down to 720P). This is a 5-star product!

Basic review: Bought this for my Yamaha RX-A1080 and it's working perfectly. It took me all of 3 minutes to set up, and it is exactly what i needed. 5/5 would recommend. Technical Review: My problem may be rather unique, or maybe not. But this is the specific and technical review wish i could have seen before placing my order. I hope it helps someone else. My setup has a living room TV that's 4K and a kitchen TV that's a cheap 1080p which i wanted to always be matched. My AV receiver is a newly bought RX-A1080 from Yamaha, who's dual HDMI outputs were supported to take care of this for me. However the RX-A1080 has two problems. It's dual HDMI out is a mirrored HDMI out (as expected) so when i connect my 4k TV and my 1080p TV the signal is downgraded to 1080p for both of them. It's second problem is that it refused to see any of my other EDID emulators to trick it into sending 4k to both and kept flickering. Additionally my 1080P TV being cheaper, hates trying to downscale and usually just says "resolution not supported" when fed 4k signal through an EDID emulator. This device solved both problems perfectly. i used my laptop to test to make sure it was being seen as a 4K display (which it was) when it's EDID switch was set to 4k and it sent a 4k signal. Connecting my laptop to the HDMI in, and the Kitchen TV to HDMI out 2 (I left HDMI 1 empty and not plugged in) I flipped the switch to downscale the output. and boom, as far as my computer thought, 4k content was being output (including tiling my wallpaper as it does on any 4k display) but the TV was happily displaying the signal with no issues. When plugged into the Yamaha (which had been having a fit with the of EDID emulators) it worked perfectly and instantly. I have not attempted to use it as a splitter since I only needed the EDID and downscaling off an already split signal, but I'd assume it would work perfectly in that capacity as well.

I tried connecting this device up to a Vizio PX65-G1 TV in the first output and video capture device into the second output with the second output scaling to 1080p. In most configurations, I was experiencing random video loss on the 4K side (TV) while the capture device never lost video. The video loss was not a consistent timing but would occur about every 5-10 seconds on average. I tested several different configurations in an effort to narrow down the issue. I tested every combination of the following: - Using one of three input devices: An 8th generation Intel NUC, AppleTV 4K, and Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K. - Connecting the capture card in the second HDMI output and nothing connected in the second HDMI output. - HDR10, Dolby Vision, and SDR 4K output (except the Intel NUC only ever outputted SDR). - Copy EDID from the first output or use the 4K EDID. I would even disconnect the HDMI in between each configuration, power-cycle the device, and reconnect the HDMI. This appeared to make no difference. I tried updating the firmware to the lastest available on the manufacture's site with no change in behavior. In testing the above configurations, the consistent factor was that the TV would cut out video on HDR (HDR10 or Dolby Vision) but would not cut out on SDR. This was true of every combination tried above. Most telling was that the TV would cut video randomly when the AppleTV 4K or Fire TV Stick 4K was connected directly to the splitter using HDR and the TV was connected directly via the first HDMI output with nothing connected to the second HDMI output. Additionally, when the TV was directly connected to the AppleTV 4K or Fire TV Stick 4K, the TV never cut out whether it was in SDR or HDR.

Successful at blocking HDCP stream (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection, a technology developed to prevent the unauthorized copying of digital audio and video content as it travels between devices, such as from a Blu-ray player to a TV). I use this in combo with Avermedia recorder and a Firestick to record shows, etc. If you plug the Firestick into the Avermedia HDMI input, you get only a black screen. With this device between the Avermedia and Firestick, the output is normal. Working good so far!

Gave us a big headache it took 3 days to make it work. So far it's working I wonder for how long

Good divice and support hdr ultra hd but picture quality and colour bright less contrast tv and projector support missing clarity

Tenia problemas con mi barra de sonido Lg ya qué no podía optener Dolby Visin a través de está, con este Splitter obtengo dolby visión dolby atmos desde mi xbox one x, es muy pequeño y se puede conectar a la toma USB de la tv lo cual lo hace muy practico, super recomendable.

It works great! Very good

Waste of money

No he podido activar la señal dolby atmos que viene de Netflix, y no lo he podido actualizar