SHNITPWR 12V 10A 120W DC Power Supply Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter 12 Volt 10 Amp Transformer 5.5x2.5mm Tip for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light 3D Printer LED Driver CCTV Security System LCD Monitor

Got this for a power supply for my sailboat water maker boost pump. Works great

You are probably reading this because of how hard it is to find a 12v power supply with decent wattage for a PC power supply. Well this is the best (as of right now) that can be found here. It runs cool, there's no noise or coil whine like with cheap ones, and it stays cool although I'm running a low TDP processor (35w intel T series) so it doesn't come close to drawing the max. Even though the pico PSU is rated for 300w. Also this gets bonus points for being exactly the right barrel plug type (5.5x2.5) out of the box without needing an adapter. That along with the fact it is hardwired to 12v 10A (120w) means it feels like an OEM solution. For anyone with a pico PSU that's 12v with a 5.5x2.5 barrel plug, this is the winner. I had tried a bigger 300w power supply meant for LED outdoor lighting and while it did the trick, you had to DIY solder it to a barrel plug yourself. I did that, and eventually it broke because the wires were so thick, they ripped the barrel plug itself apart. (My solder joints were still in tact, so I know I did a good job!) Obviously this would cause it to short, so I ditched it and looked for something a little less overkill. This is what I should have gone with from the beginning, I just was the kind of person who would throw 1000w at a 500w system out of principle. But, sometimes less is more... Don't go that route if you are considering the same. Buy this instead, if your TDP is hard capped at under 100w.

I have a $75 dollar light with a lost power supply so this little puppy had me all fixed up and got delivered in a day. Mine worked with a Dewalt lamp with the big 12V jack. Saved the day!

The adapter is OK. Used it for a 12V water pump which needs 3.5 Amps but ends up drawing little more current on startup so power supply needs some margin to make it happy. Hard to say though what amperage it actually delivers. The labeling does claim it is a 10 Amp. The casing is glued together so don't plan on easy fixes when it fries itself. Had some trouble connecting to the appliance as it had a custom (non-barrel style jack) connector. I actually fried the little dude with green terminals (in the picture) as it is not rated for this type of current - its casing turned to mush and lost connectivity to the terminal leads. I see these connectors on Amazon so beware. To make this work for me, I cut the barrel plug off and rewired with a different plug so do not be confused, also in the picture. Not a 5 star product as it came without a matching socket and cannot be disassembled in case of trouble.

I had a cheap ($16.99 wallyworld) car stereo I wanted to use to power my patio speakers. I installed it into a marine radio enclosure and just needed a power source. The radio has a 10 amp fuse which seemed kind of ambitious for a radio at this price point, but I didn't want it cutting off on me if we turn it up enough to cover the whole patio. Since the PS is also stuffed into the watertight radio enclosure (radio is mechless so only a couple inches deep), having one that is not overworked will help ensure temperatures stay reasonable. I drilled a 1" hole in the bottom of the enclosure for the power cord, wired it all up and it works great. I played it at a moderately loud volume for a few hours one day and stuck my finger into the power cord hole and it was not overly warm. I think a 2-4A one would be running hotter, so it was a good choice. I didn't bother to measure the current, so I can't confirm if it is putting out its rated power, but it ran this radio up to max usable volume without any strain. The whole setup is plugged into a GFCI outlet and will be fastened to the bottom of one of the speaker brackets for a clean look. It was a nice touch that they include a screw terminal connector with it for easy wiring. I could have cut and soldered it, but it was easier to just use the terminal adapter.

Worked as a replacement for my soundshaker home theater chair amplier when the orignal psu died. It only needs 6amps but more doesn't hurts. The connection and voltage were correct for my needs.

This is the second shnitpwr power supply that I have purchased. Each were different for 2 separate applications. This model I purchased to power a 12v water pump. It worked perfectly for a couple of months, but then just yesterday I went out to my shop where it is installed to find it pulsing the power on and off every second or 2. I'm am hoping that the power pulsing for an unknown amount of time hasn't wiped out the water pump it was powering, since every time the power pulsed it would cycle the pump. Thankfully I am still inside the return window, so I'll be able to get my money back for this one. The same isn't true for the first one that I had purchased. I had a smaller power supply running a Wilson Electronics LTE amplifier, it has also died, providing zero power. I just replaced the smaller one with a "Cool M" power supply. It's working fine now and hopefully it won't suffer the same fate. One thing is for sure though, I'll never buy another shnitpwr PSU ever again after having 2 of them die within a week of each other.

We buy a lot of these and have not had trouble with any of them. Works well in temperature extremes, no issues. Size/length always as listed.

Working well, using it to power 2 HDDs and a fan on my DIY NAS.

Works well. no problems. Is working 24/7 since installing. Would buy again.

Very good stock. Thank you

Working good so far. The AC cord connection to the DC brick is a bit loose and pulls out easily, but otherwise OK.

outside sign