Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic SAE 10W-30 Motor Oil 1 QT, Case of 6

I use this in a 2003 typical residential lawn mower with B&S engine. Mower is used at least 1x per week during growing season. Each mowing uses one full tank of gas. Only ethanol-free fuel is run (with a stabilizer additive). Engine takes about 1/2 qt oil and is only changed annually. I've run the synthetic 10w-30 VR1 exclusively in it since day 1. Wet grass, long grass, leaves; this machine is really worked like a rented mule. Engine still has strong compression and has not had a single repair outside of basic preventive maintenance to date. I've burned through belts, wheels, blades, etc but the engine hasn't been opened. Not saying this is better or worse than any other oil but this stuff has certainly far exceeded my expectations.

Have been using it on my lawnmowers ( jd x320, 750 h and 535m, 300 h) for years. Excellent product for tappet engines. Price is also right at 24$ for 2 quarts vs 20$ for turf guard is no brainer.

Works

Prices are affordable now, as compared to a decade ago… I prefer the full synthetic version, but would not mind running the synthetic blend version if this isn’t available. They only carry 10W-30 and 20W-50 in this full synthetic version; but if you need other heavier oil weights, such as 30W, 40W, 50W, or 60W, then you need the conventional oil blend version (comes in the silver/gray colored container). My local Autozone carries both the full synth and synth blend, but only at certain locations, and also only in 20w-50 weight. Most people don’t even bother to get it, so I’m assuming it’s aimed at classic performance/race engines (with flat tappets, etc.), which need the extra zinc and phosphorus content. I’m hoping the people with newer, modern cars (requiring oil with API SM, SN, etc. rating) know what they’re putting into their engines, and expelling through their exhaust systems… I’ve seen the specs for the zinc (ZDDP) and phosphorus content, and it’s not exactly something you’d want to run 24/7 and especially for a daily driver with OEM catalytic converters…. So do yourself a favor; if you have a NEWER, MODERN vehicle with CATALYTIC CONVERTERS, STOP using this product, or you’ll end up contaminating them in God knows when. Then you’ll throw O2 sensor codes probably (once those go bad too), and then you’ll be fixing everything from there….

Can't go wrong with valvoline, it lasts better, it protects the enigine better and from what i've researched it can even extend the life of your engine a little bit.

The guy who rebuilt my Chevy 350 recommended using this as break in oil even with a roller cam.

My baby loves this stuff

The very best oil you can buy for high performance engines, and I even use it in my generators, lawn tractor, mower, etc. And of course in my drag race big block.

Motor oil has just boomed in price, this price all be it high is not bad considering what you get. You need no additives for your solid lifter of hydraulic lifter non roller cam engine, this has all you need, no diluting with additives affecting the other components concentrations. I am impressed with Valvoline and how they test and improve their products. See utube video out by the motor oil geek and is trip to Valvolines R&D facility in Lexington.

Good oil. Does the job.

Good quality oil for classic cars . Very well priced compared to my local retailers. Needed in older cars with flat tapped cams due to the zinc requirement

Valvoline îs a good quality that I use in my 1967 Mustang that has a flat tappet cam.

Easy source for quality specialty oil for older engines that is not readily available in area.