--- product_id: 684269960 title: "Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg" price: "$167.57" currency: USD in_stock: true reviews_count: 13 url: https://www.desertcart.us/products/684269960-siraya-tech-cast-3d-printer-castable-resin-for-jewelry-royal store_origin: US region: United States of America --- # Distinctive Royal Blue for superior detail visibility Balanced castability for flawless precision Strong build-plate adhesion & crisp resolution Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg **Price:** $167.57 **Availability:** ✅ In Stock ## Summary > 💎 Cast your creativity in Royal Blue — where precision meets perfection! ## Quick Answers - **What is this?** Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg - **How much does it cost?** $167.57 with free shipping - **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship - **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.us](https://www.desertcart.us/products/684269960-siraya-tech-cast-3d-printer-castable-resin-for-jewelry-royal) ## Best For - Customers looking for quality international products ## Why This Product - Free international shipping included - Worldwide delivery with tracking - 15-day hassle-free returns ## Key Features - • **Visual Clarity:** Unique Royal Blue resin highlights fine details, making inspection and finishing effortless. - • **Precision Perfected:** Balanced formulation ensures clean burnout with minimal ash, ideal for delicate and thick jewelry designs. - • **Print with Confidence:** Reliable adhesion and consistent layer cohesion deliver smooth, high-resolution prints every time. - • **Versatility Unleashed:** Optimized for LCD, DLP, and SLA printers, perfect for everything from intricate rings to bold bracelets. - • **User-Centric Innovation:** Improved hardness for easy support removal and stable performance across diverse printing environments. ## Overview Siraya Tech Cast Royal Blue is a 1kg castable resin designed for high-precision lost-wax investment casting in jewelry and metal parts. Featuring balanced castability with minimal ash residue, strong build-plate adhesion, and a unique Royal Blue color for enhanced detail visibility, it supports LCD, DLP, and SLA 3D printers. This resin offers smooth surface finishes, reliable printability without special additives, and user-friendly handling for professional-grade results. ## Description desertcart.com: Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg | Best Balance of Easy Burning and Printing, Smooth Surface, High Resolution, 405nm UV Resin, for Jewelry and Metal Parts : Industrial & Scientific Review: Goodbye purple, hello BLUE - UPDATE 11/2/22: I work with this resin exclusively, and since I have so much experience with it, I figure that I’ll do updates for those of you who are just trying it or are having difficulties. This update is just to tell you guys about a successful experiment I tried. I was running low on blue, so I tried mixing blue and purple together and it honestly printed better than either one by themselves. I did about a 50/50 mixture, let it get fairly hot from sitting in super hot water from the sink for about 10 minutes. I don’t know if this is necessary, but I shook the F&$K out of it just to be sure. The resulting prints are shockingly good, I think that the addition of the purple give the pieces more rigidity, while the blue ensures cleaner models and supports. I haven’t done a cast with it yet, but I’ll let you know how it burns out. If that goes well, I will definitely be doing this from now on UPDATE 10/17/22: If you are about to hit that “buy now” button on the purple, STOP, get the blue… you’ll thank me later. Literally everything about the blue is light-years better than the purple. I went through an entire kg of purple without ever getting anything I was truly happy with (see below for old review). I was never able to achieve prints that didn’t have big build ups of unwanted resin, the post processing was ridiculous, and even after cleaning the models THOROUGHLY, I still wouldn’t get consistently clean burn outs. The Blue has none of those issues. Haven’t had a single build up around supports, the supports break cleanly from the models, post processing is easy and much faster, and best of all, the burnout is clean. The only downside of the blue is that the models are VERY fragile before post curing, so you have to be super careful. I have heard you might be able to get away without post curing at all, but I would recommend it for the simple fact that it strengthens the models significantly. If Blue is in stock, spend the extra money. I am maybe 1/3 of the way through a 500g bottle and I have achieved more usable prints than with an entire kg of the purple. OLD REVIEW OF PURPLE: I go back and forth with this resin, there are things that I like and things that I really don’t like. For the price, this stuff is good. Not great, good. If you do everything right (I’ll come back to this) you’ll get pretty good resolution, it’ll be easy to sand/finish, and you’ll have a clean burnout. But, in order for all of that to be achieved, you really have to follow these rules. First, and probably the most frustrating, is finding the proper settings. I found it really difficult to get my settings correct and I wasted a lot of time and resin doing so. I use a Mars 3 and my settings are as follows (I hope this helps someone): Layer size: 0.05micron Bottom layer count: 5 Exposure time: 5.5 Bottom exposure time: 100.00 Choose “light off delay” under the “waiting mode during printing” drop box and do: Light off delay: 2.000 Bottom light off delay: 5.000 Bottom lift speed: 50 Lifting speed: 50 Bottom retract speed: 100 Retract speed: 100 These settings have worked, but I still get a lot of resin build up around my supports which is a nightmare to clean up, if it doesn’t completely ruin the piece. These are also not the only settings I have ever tried, I have experimented with just about every reasonable combination and I haven’t been able to achieve clean prints without any globs of resin around the supports. So here’s a tip: try to position your piece and supports somewhere that will be easy to clean and won’t be the end of the world if not perfect. BE SURE TO PRINT AT 25-30°C or else you will have many failed prints! Next, you have to clean the pieces in a very specific way. No more than 30sec submersed in IPA, they recommend only using a paint brush to remove excess, and then immediately run under hot water for 30sec and then cold water for 30sec. This process has to be repeated until clean, and I find myself doing at least 6-7 cycles of this. It’s honestly pretty annoying. Next, post curing must be done in some sort of liquid with a similar refractive index as water, but NOT water, the resin is porous and the absorbed water can ruin your cast . They recommend using vegetable glycerin, but I had mineral oil on hand and it seems to work fine (more work to clean up so I’d recommend VG if you are going to buy something). You have to do this because the resin won’t cure in air, believe me, I have tried. You have to cure for at least 30 minutes, but I find myself having to cure for 1-1.5 hours, which is ridiculously long. Once it’s done curing, clean it off and be sure to dry it right away as to not let it absorb too much water. Be sure to have your burnout temp reach 1350°F and hold for 2-4 hours. Annnnd it’s just that simple! But seriously, this stuff is finicky and hard to get right, I’m almost done with a full kg and I’m still not completely happy with the results, but it works well enough if you are careful and methodical. Review: Great resin! - I love this resin. I use it in my Phrozen printer and it is my favorite resin. It casts well, and it is very strong. If you accidentally drop the print it typically doesnt break. Easy to tool and I even make rubber molds in my high temp (About 260 degrees) rubber vulcanizer with the cured prints without any issues, which is a huge time saver. And because it is wax based it is a pretty easy removal from the mold after curing. It doesnt glue itself to the rubber or need coating first like other prints. Ive tried many different resins and they are good for different things, but this one seems to be the best all around for my jewelry type usage. And it is half price of comparable resins! ## Features - BALANCED CASTABILITY FOR PRECISION CASTING: Siraya Tech Cast Royal Blue incorporates the key performance traits of Cast Purple and Cast True Blue, delivering a balanced formulation for lost-wax investment casting. This castable resin features a clean burnout profile with minimal ash residue, making it suitable for both delicate filigree and thick geometries in custom jewelry and precision metal parts manufacturing. - RELIABLE PRINTABILITY & PLATE ADHESION: Formulated for strong build-plate adhesion and crisp feature resolution, Siraya Tech Cast Royal Blue provides a stable resin 3D printing workflow. The material achieves consistent layer cohesion without requiring environmental heating or proprietary additives, delivering predictable results for both entry-level makers and industrial technicians. - DISTINCTIVE COLOR AND FINISH - The beautiful Royal Blue color with subtle purple undertones provides excellent visibility for detail inspection. This unique color combination helps highlight fine features while maintaining the high-resolution output and smooth surface finish that Siraya Tech resins are known for. - VERSATILE APPLICATIONS - Ideal for a wide range of casting applications, from intricate jewelry pieces to larger items like bracelets and medals. Cast Royal Blue's balanced properties make it suitable for various project sizes while maintaining consistent quality in LCD, DLP, and SLA 3D printers. - USER-FRIENDLY FORMULATION - Building on the success of previous Cast resins, Royal Blue offers improved handling characteristics with optimal hardness for support removal. Its user-focused development ensures reliable performance across different printing conditions while maintaining the high precision and detail retention needed for professional results. ## Technical Specifications | Specification | Value | |---------------|-------| | Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 954 Reviews | ## Images ![Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61CBQV11BML.jpg) ![Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/6146oYGToEL.jpg) ![Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61NBcKwvMEL.jpg) ![Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71k81uqtxbL.jpg) ![Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Castable Resin for Jewelry, Royal Blue, 1kg - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71dQ1aQKdoL.jpg) ## Available Options This product comes in different **Color** options. ## Customer Reviews ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Goodbye purple, hello BLUE *by B***N on September 17, 2022* UPDATE 11/2/22: I work with this resin exclusively, and since I have so much experience with it, I figure that I’ll do updates for those of you who are just trying it or are having difficulties. This update is just to tell you guys about a successful experiment I tried. I was running low on blue, so I tried mixing blue and purple together and it honestly printed better than either one by themselves. I did about a 50/50 mixture, let it get fairly hot from sitting in super hot water from the sink for about 10 minutes. I don’t know if this is necessary, but I shook the F&$K out of it just to be sure. The resulting prints are shockingly good, I think that the addition of the purple give the pieces more rigidity, while the blue ensures cleaner models and supports. I haven’t done a cast with it yet, but I’ll let you know how it burns out. If that goes well, I will definitely be doing this from now on UPDATE 10/17/22: If you are about to hit that “buy now” button on the purple, STOP, get the blue… you’ll thank me later. Literally everything about the blue is light-years better than the purple. I went through an entire kg of purple without ever getting anything I was truly happy with (see below for old review). I was never able to achieve prints that didn’t have big build ups of unwanted resin, the post processing was ridiculous, and even after cleaning the models THOROUGHLY, I still wouldn’t get consistently clean burn outs. The Blue has none of those issues. Haven’t had a single build up around supports, the supports break cleanly from the models, post processing is easy and much faster, and best of all, the burnout is clean. The only downside of the blue is that the models are VERY fragile before post curing, so you have to be super careful. I have heard you might be able to get away without post curing at all, but I would recommend it for the simple fact that it strengthens the models significantly. If Blue is in stock, spend the extra money. I am maybe 1/3 of the way through a 500g bottle and I have achieved more usable prints than with an entire kg of the purple. OLD REVIEW OF PURPLE: I go back and forth with this resin, there are things that I like and things that I really don’t like. For the price, this stuff is good. Not great, good. If you do everything right (I’ll come back to this) you’ll get pretty good resolution, it’ll be easy to sand/finish, and you’ll have a clean burnout. But, in order for all of that to be achieved, you really have to follow these rules. First, and probably the most frustrating, is finding the proper settings. I found it really difficult to get my settings correct and I wasted a lot of time and resin doing so. I use a Mars 3 and my settings are as follows (I hope this helps someone): Layer size: 0.05micron Bottom layer count: 5 Exposure time: 5.5 Bottom exposure time: 100.00 Choose “light off delay” under the “waiting mode during printing” drop box and do: Light off delay: 2.000 Bottom light off delay: 5.000 Bottom lift speed: 50 Lifting speed: 50 Bottom retract speed: 100 Retract speed: 100 These settings have worked, but I still get a lot of resin build up around my supports which is a nightmare to clean up, if it doesn’t completely ruin the piece. These are also not the only settings I have ever tried, I have experimented with just about every reasonable combination and I haven’t been able to achieve clean prints without any globs of resin around the supports. So here’s a tip: try to position your piece and supports somewhere that will be easy to clean and won’t be the end of the world if not perfect. BE SURE TO PRINT AT 25-30°C or else you will have many failed prints! Next, you have to clean the pieces in a very specific way. No more than 30sec submersed in IPA, they recommend only using a paint brush to remove excess, and then immediately run under hot water for 30sec and then cold water for 30sec. This process has to be repeated until clean, and I find myself doing at least 6-7 cycles of this. It’s honestly pretty annoying. Next, post curing must be done in some sort of liquid with a similar refractive index as water, but NOT water, the resin is porous and the absorbed water can ruin your cast . They recommend using vegetable glycerin, but I had mineral oil on hand and it seems to work fine (more work to clean up so I’d recommend VG if you are going to buy something). You have to do this because the resin won’t cure in air, believe me, I have tried. You have to cure for at least 30 minutes, but I find myself having to cure for 1-1.5 hours, which is ridiculously long. Once it’s done curing, clean it off and be sure to dry it right away as to not let it absorb too much water. Be sure to have your burnout temp reach 1350°F and hold for 2-4 hours. Annnnd it’s just that simple! But seriously, this stuff is finicky and hard to get right, I’m almost done with a full kg and I’m still not completely happy with the results, but it works well enough if you are careful and methodical. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great resin! *by R***M on June 27, 2026* I love this resin. I use it in my Phrozen printer and it is my favorite resin. It casts well, and it is very strong. If you accidentally drop the print it typically doesnt break. Easy to tool and I even make rubber molds in my high temp (About 260 degrees) rubber vulcanizer with the cured prints without any issues, which is a huge time saver. And because it is wax based it is a pretty easy removal from the mold after curing. It doesnt glue itself to the rubber or need coating first like other prints. Ive tried many different resins and they are good for different things, but this one seems to be the best all around for my jewelry type usage. And it is half price of comparable resins! ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Todo bien *by V***Z on August 18, 2026* Excelente ## Frequently Bought Together - Siraya Tech Cast 3D Printer Resin Best Balance of Easy Burning and Printing Smooth Surface High Resolution Castable 405nm UV-Curing Resin for Jewelry and Metal Parts (Royal Blue, 1kg) - Prestige ORO 5Lb Premium Jewelry Making Casting Powder Lost Wax Investment Powder for Gold, Silver ETC - DZQ Perforated Casting Flask Vacuum Casting Stainless Steel Wall Flanged with Rubber Sprue Base(3.5" x 4") --- ## Why Shop on Desertcart? - 🛒 **Trusted by 1.3+ Million Shoppers** — Serving international shoppers since 2016 - 🌍 **Shop Globally** — Access 737+ million products across 21 categories - 💰 **No Hidden Fees** — All customs, duties, and taxes included in the price - 🔄 **15-Day Free Returns** — Hassle-free returns (30 days for PRO members) - 🔒 **Secure Payments** — Trusted payment options with buyer protection - ⭐ **TrustPilot Rated 4.5/5** — Based on 8,000+ happy customer reviews **Shop now:** [https://www.desertcart.us/products/684269960-siraya-tech-cast-3d-printer-castable-resin-for-jewelry-royal](https://www.desertcart.us/products/684269960-siraya-tech-cast-3d-printer-castable-resin-for-jewelry-royal) --- *Product available on Desertcart United States of America* *Store origin: US* *Last updated: 2026-08-25*