---
product_id: 235654439
title: "Weewooday 10 Pcs Buck Converter 5V Regulator, 12V 24V to 5V 3A | Mini Module for DIY, 4.5-24V Input Range, Chip Design, Compact PCB Board, Stable Volt Output"
brand: "weewooday"
price: "$24.72"
currency: USD
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 9
category: "Weewooday"
url: https://www.desertcart.us/products/235654439-weewooday-10-pcs-buck-converter-5v-regulator-12v-24v-to
store_origin: US
region: United States of America
---

# 3A max output current Compact 20x11x5 mm PCB size Adjustable 0.8-17V output range Weewooday 10 Pcs Buck Converter 5V Regulator, 12V 24V to 5V 3A | Mini Module for DIY, 4.5-24V Input Range, Chip Design, Compact PCB Board, Stable Volt Output

**Brand:** weewooday
**Price:** $24.72
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚡ Mini Powerhouse: Big Voltage Control in a Tiny Package!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Weewooday 10 Pcs Buck Converter 5V Regulator, 12V 24V to 5V 3A | Mini Module for DIY, 4.5-24V Input Range, Chip Design, Compact PCB Board, Stable Volt Output by weewooday
- **How much does it cost?** $24.72 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.us](https://www.desertcart.us/products/235654439-weewooday-10-pcs-buck-converter-5v-regulator-12v-24v-to)

## Best For

- weewooday enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted weewooday brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Compact Yet Robust:** Ultra-compact PCB design fits tight spaces without compromising on durability or output power.
- • **Custom Voltage Control:** Easily switch between fixed voltages or fine-tune output with the onboard potentiometer.
- • **Efficient & Cool Operation:** High 97.5% conversion efficiency minimizes heat, ensuring stable performance under load.
- • **Plug & Play Enable Function:** Integrated enable port allows seamless on/off control with ultra-low standby current.
- • **Power Your Projects with Precision:** Supports a wide input range of 4.5-24V, perfect for versatile DIY applications.

## Overview

The Weewooday 10 Pcs Buck Converter set offers a compact, high-efficiency voltage regulator solution with a broad 4.5-24V input range and selectable fixed or adjustable output voltages up to 17V. Each module delivers up to 3A current with advanced features like short-circuit protection, ultra-low quiescent current, and a compact 20x11x5 mm footprint, making it ideal for professional DIY electronics and power management projects.

## Description

desertcart.com: Weewooday 10 Pcs Buck Converter 5V Regulator, 12V 24V to 5V 3A | Mini Module for DIY, 4.5-24V Input Range, Chip Design, Compact PCB Board, Stable Volt Output : Electronics

Review: 10 of 20 burned out more or less instantly - I bought 80 of these (8 packs of 10) for a project where I need 60 of them. Of the first five, the first three cooked within seconds of being energized for testing. Maybe some of that was my fault, like I touched something with a probe or something. I'll be the first to blame user error. Then a few more burned out as I was being VERY careful with them not to short anything by mistake. Some I had set to 3.3V got really hot. Multimeter had a tough time measuring the voltage on some of them, but if I just held the probes on the output for long enough it'd eventually read 3.3v consistently. 5V seemed to do a little better. I assembled a device with five of these - four at 5 Volts and one at 3.3 and carefully brought up the supply voltage. No loads attached at this point, just verifying they were supplying safe voltages. Current draw was pretty acceptable at 60mA for all five. I couldn't quite force myself to energize this unit with a full 12V under the actual load of use - about 1A each of the 5V and 300mA on the 3.3V. Something about it gave me the creeps. So, I very carefully assemble another setup with four 5s and a 3.3. I'm especially careful to solder everything independently and make sure all is very clean and the process is clearly thought out and protects the converters from excessive heat or unwelcome touching. I connect the all the loads. I hook it up to a different 12V power supply. Flames immediately flare out of three of the five volt converters. One 5V appears not to have burned out, and the one set to 3.3V also seems ok visually. You can see exactly which component died in all cases. I don't dare to try any more of these, lest they destroy the components they're supposed to be powering. I'm still sitting on 60 of these things, so I figure - before I push go on this one-star review, let's do one more test. I hook it up and run it up to 12V. It seems to want to spit out a nice 5V. On the oscilloscope, the output is good. But it randomly gets really hot, and my whole workshop smells like burned out electronics. I just don't trust them anymore. I'm sitting right around a 50% failure rate with the legitimate potential to start a fire. This is by no means a sterile laboratory environment, and I bought an extra 20 because I figured I'd make a mistake here or there. But I'm not THIS incompetent. I'm not going to attempt to use these converters further. Bought 15 chunkier 5V 10A regulators instead and will share the load from one regulator instead of relying on four smaller ones. I'll just hook up an LDO regulator to pipe down to 3.3V from the 5V rail. I doubt the 25% of reviews with one star would have deterred me from making the purchase. I love a good adventure, after all. This is one of those rare times where whatever I just bought is utterly unfit for a task for which the product description clearly said it would be well suited. If you're smarter than me, you'll avoid these. Or maybe your extra wit will enable you to use them successfully. Good luck!
Review: Awesome little buck converters - There are a few bad reviews on this item, but I have purchased this buck converter several times and I have been happy with every single one of them. Perhaps the documentation is insufficient or missing, but if you're buying one of them you probably at least THINK you know what you're doing, and when the negative reviewers connected it wrong and it short circuited, they decided to blame the device for their misuse. Connections: On one end of the chip there are 4 solder pads that are labeled VO+, GND, IN+, and EN. VO+ = the positive output pin (stepped down to whatever you select) IN+ = the positive input pin (acceptable range between 4.5V and 24V) GND = shared/common ground for your input and output (e.g. BOTH input and output negative grounds are connected to this one, single pin). EN = enable port (e.g. used to turn power on or off like a relay) Unless you plan to use a GPIO pin (Arduino, RPi, etc.) to signal the enable port (e.g. to turn power on/off), just ignore the EN pad. If you do want to power it on and off, connect a GPIO pin to the EN pin and set the GPIO to HIGH to STOP power flow through the chip and LOW to turn it ON. I typically don't use the EN port for my projects, but it's a nice feature. Note: If you wire the EN pin as a ground for your voltage in (which is likely what the bad reviewers did), it will short circuit. Don't do that and then complain that the chips are bad - they're not; you just wired it incorrectly. The EN port is NOT a ground. Voltage selection: The trickier part is voltage selection. Remember, this is ONLY a voltage reducer. If you feed it 4.5V, you can't get 12V out of it. Your desired output voltage must be LOWER than your input voltage. Also, BY DEFAULT, the potentiometer on the top of the chip is what is used to adjust the voltage. If you prefer to use the solder pads on the back to step down to a pre-defined voltage, you have to cut the connection on the ADJ jumper pad that is connected on the printed circuit board (the connection you need to cut is under the green shielding). Cutting this connection is probably the most difficult thing to do on the device. An X-Acto knife works well for it, but it takes some effort to cut all the way through the connection without cutting your finger (ask me how I know). For the sake of safety, I typically adjust the potentiometer using a power supply for my power input and a voltmeter to check the voltage output. Depending on the project, once I have everything soldered and adjusted, I typically use a piece of adhesive-filled heat shrink tubing to cover the entire chip. This will: 1. lock in the potentiometer setting and 2. seal everything up nicely to keep it waterproof.

## Features

- Voltage range: the power supply module input is DC 4.5 - 12V, adjustable range is 0.8 - 17V, fixed output is 1.8V, 2.5V, 3.3V, 5V, 9V, 12V which can be chosen on the back; Output current is 3A max, please increase the cooling work at full load; If the actual test input is 12V and output is 1.5A, no other system is required
- Adjustable and fixed voltage output: this buck converter allows you to get fixed output voltage by soldering the pot on the board, and you can adjust the fixed output voltage by potentiometer as you needed
- Product performance: the voltage regulator module has high efficiency, ultra-compact size, high frequency, low ripple and stable working performance, widely applicable for fixing work: Synchronous rectification and the circuit conversion efficiency is as high as 97.5%
- Reliable material: regulator module is made with quality potentiometer and 3A current chip, high current shielding inductor and MLCC solid capacitor with long service life; High current shielding inductance, ultra-low internal resistance, maximize conversion efficiency, reduce heat generation
- Convenient to use: integrated enable port of the regulator board defaults to working mode and will be closed when it is at low electric level off, and with ultra-low quiescent current, quiescent current is 0.85 mA; It can be connected to the car battery without a switch, cigarette lighter cord or the ACC power cord

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B08JZ5FVLC |
| Amperage | 3 A |
| Best Sellers Rank | #101,673 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #401 in Power Converters |
| Brand | Weewooday |
| Built-In Media | 10 x Mini 5v regulators |
| Color | red |
| Compatible Devices | [INFERRED] Devices with a 5V input requirement |
| Compatible Phone Models | [INFERRED] Devices with a 5V input requirement |
| Connectivity Technology | Proprietary Connector |
| Connector Type | Proprietary |
| Current Rating | 3 A |
| Customer Package Type | FFP |
| Customer Reviews | 2.9 out of 5 stars 260 Reviews |
| Enclosure Material | Electronic components and materials |
| Frequency Range | 500 KHz, NO |
| Included Components | 10 x Mini 5v regulators |
| Input Voltage | 24 volts |
| Item Weight | 22.68 g |
| Main Power Connector Type | 2 Pin |
| Manufacturer | Weewooday |
| Mfr Part Number | Weewooday-820 |
| Model Number | Weewooday-820 |
| Mounting Type | Board Mount |
| Number of Items | 10 |
| Number of Power Levels | 6 |
| Output Current | 3 A |
| Output Voltage | 5 volts |
| Power Plug | No Plug |
| Power Source | Battery Powered, Corded Electric |
| Special Feature | Short Circuit Protection |
| Special Features | Short Circuit Protection |
| Specification Met | CE |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
| Wattage | 693 watts |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Weewooday
- **Connectivity Technology:** Proprietary Connector
- **Compatible Devices:** [INFERRED] Devices with a 5V input requirement
- **Compatible Phone Models:** [INFERRED] Devices with a 5V input requirement
- **Included Components:** 10 x Mini 5v regulators
- **Input Voltage:** 24 Volts
- **Amperage:** 3 Amps
- **Wattage:** 693 watts
- **Number of Items:** 10
- **Output Current:** 3 Amps

## Images

![Weewooday 10 Pcs Buck Converter 5V Regulator, 12V 24V to 5V 3A | Mini Module for DIY, 4.5-24V Input Range, Chip Design, Compact PCB Board, Stable Volt Output - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81-o31NYgCL.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐ 10 of 20 burned out more or less instantly
*by J***W on October 20, 2024*

I bought 80 of these (8 packs of 10) for a project where I need 60 of them. Of the first five, the first three cooked within seconds of being energized for testing. Maybe some of that was my fault, like I touched something with a probe or something. I'll be the first to blame user error. Then a few more burned out as I was being VERY careful with them not to short anything by mistake. Some I had set to 3.3V got really hot. Multimeter had a tough time measuring the voltage on some of them, but if I just held the probes on the output for long enough it'd eventually read 3.3v consistently. 5V seemed to do a little better. I assembled a device with five of these - four at 5 Volts and one at 3.3 and carefully brought up the supply voltage. No loads attached at this point, just verifying they were supplying safe voltages. Current draw was pretty acceptable at 60mA for all five. I couldn't quite force myself to energize this unit with a full 12V under the actual load of use - about 1A each of the 5V and 300mA on the 3.3V. Something about it gave me the creeps. So, I very carefully assemble another setup with four 5s and a 3.3. I'm especially careful to solder everything independently and make sure all is very clean and the process is clearly thought out and protects the converters from excessive heat or unwelcome touching. I connect the all the loads. I hook it up to a different 12V power supply. Flames immediately flare out of three of the five volt converters. One 5V appears not to have burned out, and the one set to 3.3V also seems ok visually. You can see exactly which component died in all cases. I don't dare to try any more of these, lest they destroy the components they're supposed to be powering. I'm still sitting on 60 of these things, so I figure - before I push go on this one-star review, let's do one more test. I hook it up and run it up to 12V. It seems to want to spit out a nice 5V. On the oscilloscope, the output is good. But it randomly gets really hot, and my whole workshop smells like burned out electronics. I just don't trust them anymore. I'm sitting right around a 50% failure rate with the legitimate potential to start a fire. This is by no means a sterile laboratory environment, and I bought an extra 20 because I figured I'd make a mistake here or there. But I'm not THIS incompetent. I'm not going to attempt to use these converters further. Bought 15 chunkier 5V 10A regulators instead and will share the load from one regulator instead of relying on four smaller ones. I'll just hook up an LDO regulator to pipe down to 3.3V from the 5V rail. I doubt the 25% of reviews with one star would have deterred me from making the purchase. I love a good adventure, after all. This is one of those rare times where whatever I just bought is utterly unfit for a task for which the product description clearly said it would be well suited. If you're smarter than me, you'll avoid these. Or maybe your extra wit will enable you to use them successfully. Good luck!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Awesome little buck converters
*by D***D on July 14, 2022*

There are a few bad reviews on this item, but I have purchased this buck converter several times and I have been happy with every single one of them. Perhaps the documentation is insufficient or missing, but if you're buying one of them you probably at least THINK you know what you're doing, and when the negative reviewers connected it wrong and it short circuited, they decided to blame the device for their misuse. Connections: On one end of the chip there are 4 solder pads that are labeled VO+, GND, IN+, and EN. VO+ = the positive output pin (stepped down to whatever you select) IN+ = the positive input pin (acceptable range between 4.5V and 24V) GND = shared/common ground for your input and output (e.g. BOTH input and output negative grounds are connected to this one, single pin). EN = enable port (e.g. used to turn power on or off like a relay) Unless you plan to use a GPIO pin (Arduino, RPi, etc.) to signal the enable port (e.g. to turn power on/off), just ignore the EN pad. If you do want to power it on and off, connect a GPIO pin to the EN pin and set the GPIO to HIGH to STOP power flow through the chip and LOW to turn it ON. I typically don't use the EN port for my projects, but it's a nice feature. Note: If you wire the EN pin as a ground for your voltage in (which is likely what the bad reviewers did), it will short circuit. Don't do that and then complain that the chips are bad - they're not; you just wired it incorrectly. The EN port is NOT a ground. Voltage selection: The trickier part is voltage selection. Remember, this is ONLY a voltage reducer. If you feed it 4.5V, you can't get 12V out of it. Your desired output voltage must be LOWER than your input voltage. Also, BY DEFAULT, the potentiometer on the top of the chip is what is used to adjust the voltage. If you prefer to use the solder pads on the back to step down to a pre-defined voltage, you have to cut the connection on the ADJ jumper pad that is connected on the printed circuit board (the connection you need to cut is under the green shielding). Cutting this connection is probably the most difficult thing to do on the device. An X-Acto knife works well for it, but it takes some effort to cut all the way through the connection without cutting your finger (ask me how I know). For the sake of safety, I typically adjust the potentiometer using a power supply for my power input and a voltmeter to check the voltage output. Depending on the project, once I have everything soldered and adjusted, I typically use a piece of adhesive-filled heat shrink tubing to cover the entire chip. This will: 1. lock in the potentiometer setting and 2. seal everything up nicely to keep it waterproof.

### ⭐ "What could go wrong?" - Seemingly everything!
*by S***E on September 12, 2022*

So much about this product is inconsistent. I read the description's directions. I looked through the sample images' instructions. I read through the questions-and-answers. I browsed the reviews' warnings, and solutions. And, frankly, I don't think everyone is talking about the same thing! Why? Because they all contradict to some degree, and the batch I got was different still! There's a YouTube video that matches the product in the sample photos, and I followed that to-the-"T". It blew up. It was then that I noticed that the screen-printing on the back-side was missing. It's fairly common to swap out one part with a comparable one that's more readily available, but it's uncommon to need to revise the PCB to the point that the screen-printing changes. In my use case, I was feeding in 20V in (okay, it was 20.5V), and trying to use fixed 5V out. I cut the lead, tested that it was severed with a multimeter, shorted the "5V" pads, and soldered my 20V leads to the V-IN and GND, respectively. I ended up destroying 4 in the process of troubleshooting, and the fifth got weird. The fifth board Output -16.5V, such that the common GND was positive relative to the "V-OUT"... But I was able to pull 4.5V from the board's EN pin. What? And this 4.5V was negative to the common GND. What? Well, this isn't going to work for my purposes, because I need my original 20.5V, along with 5V both going back to a common GND. That's not possible WHEN THE GROUND IS THE POSITIVE VOLTAGE! I knew it was a gamble. It didn't pay off. Also note: this is only the second time I've ever been compelled to leave a review on Amazon. Buyer beware!

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*Product available on Desertcart United States of America*
*Store origin: US*
*Last updated: 2026-09-11*